Undesirable behavior exhibited by dogs!

Undesirable behavior exhibited by dogs between puppyhood and adolescence, such as destructive chewing, jumping on people, and play biting, is medically referred to as pediatric behavior problems. Though these behaviors may be perceived as a “normal” trait of a puppy, it is often not acceptable behavior for a pet. It is important to address this as early as possible with behavioral modification therapies while the puppy is still impressionable.

Genetics do play an important role and behavior of young pups is likely to be similar to those of their parents. Certain breeds inherit certain problems like unruly, activity problems in working breeds of dog. However, such behavioral problems have been found to be more common in urban areas where opportunities for exercise and play are limited.

Symptoms and Types

1.  Barking

Most dogs bark, howl and whine to some degree. Excessive barking is considered a behavior problem. Before you can correct barking, determine why your dog is vocalizing in the first place. These are the most common types of barking

·         Warning or Alert

·         Playfulness/Excitement

·         Attention-seeking

·         Anxiety

·         Boredom

·         Responding to Other Dogs

Learn to control excessive barking. Be consistent and patient. Also, consider teaching the Bark/Quiet Commands. Dedication and attention to detail can go a long way.

2.  Chewing

Chewing is a natural action for all dogs - it's just a part of the way they are wired. However, chewing can quickly become a behavior problem if your dog causes destruction. The most common reasons dogs chew are as follows:

·         Puppy Teething

·         Boredom / Excess Energy

·         Anxiety

·         Curiosity (especially puppies)

Encourage your dog to chew on the right things by providing plenty of chew toys. Keep personal items away from your dog. When you are not home, keep your dog crated or confined to an area where less destruction can be caused. If you catch your dog chewing the wrong thing, quickly correct him with a sharp noise. Then, replace the item with a chew toy. One of the most important things you can do: make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise! More »

3.  Digging

If given the chance, most dogs will do some amount of digging - it's a matter of instinct. Certain breeds, like Terriers, are more prone to digging because of their hunting histories. In general, most dogs dig for these reasons:

·         Boredom or Excess Energy

·         Anxiety or Fear

·         Hunting Instinct

·         Comfort-Seeking (such as nesting or cooling off)

·         Hiding Possessions (like bones or toys)

·         To Escape or Gain Access

If your dog digs up your yard, it can get pretty frustrating for you. Try and determine the cause of the digging, then work to eliminate that source. Spend more time with your dog, give him more exercise, and work on extra training. If digging is inevitable, set aside an area where your dog can learn it is "okay" to dig, like a sand box.

4.  Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most commonly discussed dog behavior problems. Manifestations include vocalization, chewing, inappropriate urination and defecation, and other forms of destruction that occur when a dog is separated from his owner. Not all of these actions are the result of separation anxiety. Signs of true separation anxiety include:

·         Dog becomes anxious when owner prepares to leave

·         Misbehavior occurs in the first 15-45 minutes after owner leaves

·         Dog wants to follow owner around constantly

·         Dog tries to be touching owner whenever possible

·         True separation anxiety requires dedicated training, behavior modification and desensitization exercises. Medication may be recommended in extreme cases, but this should be a last resort.

5.  Inappropriate Elimination

Inappropriate urination and defecation are among the most frustrating dog behaviors. They can damage areas of your home and make your dog unwelcome in public places or at the homes of others. It is most important that you discuss this behavior with your veterinarian first to rule out health problems. If no medical cause is found, try to determine the reason for the behavior, which can come down to one of the following:

·         Submissive/Excitement Urination

·         Territorial Marking

·         Anxiety

·         Attention-seeking

·         Lack of proper housebreaking

Inappropriate elimination is unavoidable in puppies, especially before 12 weeks of age. Older dogs are another story - many require serious behavior modification to rid them of the habit because you must often alter their perception of themselves.

6.  Chasing

A dog's desire to chase moving things is simply a display of predatory instinct. Many dogs will chase other animals, people and cars. All of these can lead to dangerous and devastating outcomes! While you may not be able to stop your dog from trying to chase, you can take steps to prevent disaster.

·         Keep your dog on a leash at all times (unless directly supervised indoors).

·         Train your dog to come when called.

·         Have a dog whistle or noisemaker on hand to get your dog's attention.

·         Stay aware and watch for potential triggers, like joggers.

·         Your best chance at success is to keep the chase from getting out of control. Dedicated training over the course of your dog's life will teach him to focus his attention on

·         you

·         first - before running off.

7.  Jumping Up

Puppies jump up to reach and greet their mothers. Later, they may jump up when greeting people. Dogs may also jump up to exert dominance. A jumping dog can be annoying and even dangerous. There are many methods to stop a dog's jumping, but not all will be successful. Lifting a knee, grabbing the paws, or pushing the dog away might work for some, but for most dogs this sends the wrong message. Jumping up is often attention-seeking behavior, so any acknowledgment of your dog's actions provide a reward! The best method: simply turn away and ignore your dog. Do not make eye contact, speak, or touch your dog. Go about your business. When he relaxes and remains still, calmly reward him. It won't take long before your dog gets the message.

8.  Biting

Dogs bite for reasons that can be traced back to instinct and pack mentality. Puppies bite and nip on other dogs and people as a means for exploring their environment and learning their place in the pack. Owners must show their puppies that mouthing and biting are not acceptable by teaching bite inhibition. Beyond puppy behavior, the motivation to bite or snap typically comes from the following:

·         Fear or Defensiveness

·         Protection of Property

·         Pain or Sickness

·         Dominance Assertion

·         Predatory Instinct

Though some breeds are thought to be dangerous, it is my belief that breed specific legislation is not the answer. Owners and breeders are the ones who can help decrease the tendency for any type of dog to bite through proper training, socialization and breeding practices.

9.  Aggression

Dog aggression is exhibited by growling, snarling, showing teeth, lunging and biting. It is important to know that any dog has the potential to become aggressive, regardless of breed or history. However, dogs with violent or abusive histories and those bred from dogs with aggressive tendencies are much more likely to exhibit aggressive behavior towards people or other dogs. Reasons for aggression are basically the same as the reasons a dog will bite or snap, but overall canine aggression is a much more serious problem. If your dog has aggressive tendencies, consult your vet first - it may stem from a health problem. Then, seek the help of an experienced dog trainer. Serious measures should be taken to keep others safe from aggressive dogs!

10. Pulling on the Leash

Help your dog learn to walk calmly beside you. Never let him pull. Or else he'll learn pulling sometimes pays off. Keep the leash short but loose. Stop whenever you feel it go tight. He'll stop to see why you aren't moving. When he comes back, reward him and keep walking. After a few days, your dog will learn that pulling gets him nowhere.

What to do?

Recent research has explored the use of human anti-anxiety medications for use with canine anxiety problems. These have been shown to have some effectiveness, but usually the best results are achieved with behavioral interventions supplemented by medication when the problem is severe. Consult your veterinarian if the problem is severe.

Things That Scare Dogs

Anyone who has a dog knows that they can get freaked out sometimes.

1. Fireworks- fear of fireworks is a common phobia for dogs. They often find the loud, unpredictable noise and bright displays of light truly frightening. Even a seemingly confident dog can tremble and drool at the unfamiliar sounds.

2. Thunderstorms- Dogs may develop astraphobia, or a fear of thunder/lightening.This can range from mild to severe from dog to dog. Dogs may also be able to sense a thunderstorm coming well before you are able to detect it. This is the reason so many dog owners report seeing their dogs exhibit signs of fear several minutes or longer before the storm actually hits.

3. Fear of the Vet- Also quite common in dogs. Going to the vet is a traumatic experience for dogs;there are strange smells and sounds,maybe a memory of getting shots. Sometimes all this takes place when your dog is already not feeling well.

4. Other dogs- Dogs are pack animals. That means they form stable social units and protect territory from other dogs. A dog that is afraid of other dogs may have developed the problem as the effects of bad puppyhood experiences with other (bigger) dogs. If your puppy gets frightened by another dog, even without injury, you have the start of a problem. With a few more incidents like that, you get a permanent fear built for the future unless you take immediate corrective action.

Signs of fear
Dogs communicate using their bodies. Keep the following signs of fear in mind so you can easily catch on to even the slightest hint that your dog is anxious and stressed about something in his environment.

• Flattened ears
• Tail tucked between the hind legs
• Cowering
• Lip licking
• Yawning
• Raised hair on the back of the neck
• Some dogs exhibit specific behaviours when they are anxious or afraid:
• Whining
• Submissive urination
• Growling
• Biting
• Pacing
• Destructiveness
• Clinginess to owner
• Drooling
• Panting
• Trembling
• Dilated pupils or seeing the whites of a dog's eyes
• Loss of control over bowels or bladder

If you notice your dog exhibiting one or more of these signals try to identify the source of your dog's fear. Most important- keep calm! Your body language can tell a dog that there is a reason to be afraid. Your dog will sense anxiety and nervousness and respond accordingly. You can desensitize your dog from mild fears and phobias fairly easily on your own but I would recommend a vet or a dog behaviour specialist for severe cases to protect you and your dog as a frightened dog can become aggressive.

Vaccinations provide protection to your pets!

Vaccines help prevent many illnesses that affect pets. Vaccinating your pet has long been considered one of the easiest ways to help him live a long, healthy life. Not only are there different vaccines for different diseases, there are different types and combinations of vaccines. Vaccination is a procedure that has risks and benefits that must be weighed for every pet relative to his lifestyle and health. Your veterinarian can determine a vaccination regime that will provide the safest and best protection for your individual animal.

How Vaccines Promote Dog Health?

Vaccines are a weakened or killed version of bacteria or virus that is injected into a dog’s immune system to stimulate the creation of antibodies that block against disease. Puppies have a natural immunity from their mother’s milk but this immunity wears off over time and so the puppies need vaccinations to bolster the immune system and prevent disease and illness.

Modified live virus (MLV) vaccines are made up of a weakened strain of a disease and are injected into a dog’s immune system to stimulate an immune response. MLVs offer stronger and more lasting immunity with less shots or doses but can cause disease in rare cases and must be stored and handled carefully.

Killed vaccines are inactivated or killed strains of a disease or virus that are introduced to the immune system to stimulate a response. These types of vaccines must be administered several times and are generally less effective than MLV vaccines but are less likely to have adverse side effects.

Recommended Core Dog Vaccines

1.       Parvovirus: The parvo vaccine protects against a deadly but common virus, especially in puppies, that is highly contagious through contact with infected animals stool. The virus attacks the intestines and causes severe diarrhea and vomiting which can lead to dehydration and death. Rottweilers and Doberman Pinschers are high risk breeds for parvo.

2.       Rabies: A fatal and incurable disease, the rabies virus attacks the nervous system of dogs that have been exposed to the saliva of an infected animal through an open wound or bite. Rabies vaccines should always be kept up to date.

3.       Canine Distemper: This deadly contagious disease is caused by the virus CDV and has no cure. Distemper mostly affects puppies and attacks multiple systems including the respiratory and central nervous systems.

4.       Canine Infectious Hepatitis: Canine Infectious Hepatitis is a viral disease of the liver. The hepatitis virus is transmitted in urine or nasal or eye secretions of infected animals and can cause severe, permanent damage.

5.       Canine Parainfluenza: Parainfluenza is one cause of upper respiratory infections commonly known as “kennel cough” in dogs. It is highly contagious and can be spread through the air, causing coughing and sneezing in infected dogs.

6.       Bordetella bronchiseptica: The bacteria Bordetella is another common cause of kennel cough in dogs. Like parainfluenza, it is highly contagious and can be spread through the air. Bordetella infections are most common in dogs that are housed with or spend a lot of time with many other dogs, and vaccination is generally recommended for dogs who will be boarded frequently, attend doggy day care, or visit dog parks on a regular basis.

Potential Side Effects of Vaccines

Side effects of vaccinations include allergic reactions, low fevers, pain, suppressed immune systems, abortions in pregnant dogs, muscle aches and low energy.

The potential side effects of vaccinations and rare possibility that the vaccines won't work should be balanced against the risks of contracting a disease like rabies or parvovirus, which can be deadly.

Are Annual Vaccinations Safe?

There are many debates among veterinarians and pet care workers over vaccination schedules and the need for booster shots each year. Each year thousands of dogs avoid disease because of vaccines, but annual vaccinations are not always necessary; especially for older dogs that have little contact with other animals or have suppressed immune systems. Senior dogs are less likely to contract diseases like parvo or distemper and may be harmed from too many vaccines. Vets recommend annual checkups for senior dogs but are not giving vaccines each and every year. Check with your veterinarian to see what vaccination schedule is best for your dog's age and health.

Exercise and play are quite indispensable for your pets !

Pets like dogs, cats, rodents and even birds love to play. You need to buy pet accessories that will keep them moving, as well as keep them from getting bored. There are tons of toys and treats to choose from so there is no excuse why your pet should not be entertained.

Just like other pet accessories, your choice should reflect the type of pet you have, its temperament and size. Dogs who love to retrieve things may want a ball launcher. Pups with a compulsion to chew should have their own sturdy chew toy. Cats who love to climb need their own cat towers as well as scratchers. Active hamsters need durable hamster wheels for them to run around on.

Toys

Dog toys and baby toys are often made of similar materials and some toys even make the same kind of noise, like a squeak. So it’s not surprising that some dogs become confused about which toys they can play with!

One of the best things about being a pet parent of a dog is how much they love to play, and choosing the best dog toys is an important part of your relationship. Whether you're playing a game of fetch or watching him roll around to entertain himself, toys are an important part of your dog's well-being. 

What should you consider when choosing the best ones?

Age: Although he doesn't mature the way you do, you should still keep your dog's age in mind. A three-week-old puppy still has his baby teeth, so toys with softer rubber or plush, snugly fabrics would be a good fit for him. From three to nine months, your puppy will be teething, so it's best to avoid hard rubber and be sure to stock up! He'll be chewing on anything he can get his paws on, so a good variety of chew toys will keep him distracted from your favorite pair of loafers.

Once the teething phase passes, your dog will have a strong enough jaw for harder rubber toys and endless energy to play with balls or rope pulls. By age seven or so, your senior dog won't have the same jaw and tooth strength as a young adult, but it's still important to give him some softer toys to chew on and play with toys that encourage him to keep him active, like easy-to-toss balls and sticks. Luckily, there are plenty of options specifically made for dogs of certain ages, all of which match your dog's age with his size and his personal chewing habits.

Size and Texture

A toy that is too soft can break into pieces and become choked on or ingested—causing gastrointestinal blockages as a result. If you notice a toy starting to show signs damage—such as a broken squeaker or breaks or tears in fabric or stuffing—it's typically best to replace it.

The right size toy is important as well. Something too small can be swallowed just as easily. A general rule is to make sure anything small enough to fit behind your dog's rear molars is a choking hazard. Ultimately, you'll want to decide which types of toys will occupy your companion the best. Dogs, like people, will be able to indicate which toys they prefer over time.

After buying the basics, here are some notable pet products you might want to invest in:

Doggie stairs – This is a great investment for pet Cuddlers. With these ramps, your dog won’t have to whine and beg for you to let it up. Doggie stairs will help small and medium-sized pooches climb up to your bed or couch without any help, helping them become more independent.

Pet litter – For health and hygiene’s sake, every pet owner needs a litter box. It doesn’t matter if there is an ample yard the cat can do its business in. You still need a designated spot it can urinate and defecate in when it is inside the house. Choose a pet litter that is convenient, cost-effective, environmentally friendly and safe for you to handle. Do note that some cats don’t respond well to particular kitty litters, therefore you need to test out a brand first before purchasing larger bags.

Heating mat – Not all animal lovers prefer furry pets. There are reptile pets too! Snakes, iguanas and chameleons, three of the most popular reptilian pets, are cold blooded. They need pet heating mats in their habitats as a heat source or else, their bodies won’t be able to function well. Most pet supply stores sell this type of accessory, but it is sadly often overlooked by uninformed pet owners.

Pet clothes – Pets wearing clothes can either look cute or downright silly if you’re going to make bad fashion choices. The key towards pet clothes is restraint. 

If you are going to make your pet wear piles of ridiculous clothing, it will just be miserable since its movements will be hampered. Choose pieces that are functional and appropriate to the weather. Examples of these accessories are Doggles, sweaters, raincoats and vests.

Pet collars and leashes for security

Most pets need collars for security reasons. Aside from being very convenient whenever you need to restrain your animal friend, they are also helpful if you want to identify the pet as your own. Almost all collars can accommodate attachments or can be engraved to hold important specifics like your and your pet’s names, address and contact details. All of these will be a great help if ever your pet will wander around the neighborhood on its own.

On the other hand, not all pet owners have invested in good leashes because they think it’s unnecessary. If you want to be a responsible owner, at least keep one around the house because they will keep your pet more secured. Leashes are necessary if you want to take your pet out for a walk or to keep them from running unsupervised. It is also needed if you want to be respectful towards your neighbors because they might not be a pet lover like you.

Various types of collars available:

It's important to understand that any particular collar can be effective, ineffective or harmful, depending on the handler and also on the individual dog. It's vital to learn as much as you can about training and educating your dog, choosing training tools, matching the tool to the individual dog, and using such items properly and humanely. In addition, proper fit is crucial.

1. Buckle collars. Every dog should wear a buckle collar, indoors as well as outside. After all, even a canine homebody could feel compelled to dash out a door or run off when feeling insecure or frightened. This collar provides a handy "handle" for catching a loose or overly rambunctious dog, separating animals who don't get along, and for attaching the dog's I.D., dog license and rabies tags. If the tags clatter too much for your liking, you can mute the sound by affixing clear packing around them.

Buckle collars are made of leather, cloth, nylon and other materials. Choose a collar for sturdiness and comfort over looks. The collar should be adjusted tight enough so that it cannot slip off the dog's head; it should be just loose enough to allow you to slip two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck.

2. Training collars. These include metal chain collars, choker collars, braided or rolled nylon slip collars, and cloth slip collars. A key benefit of this type of collar is that it self-adjusts, when used with a leash, around the dog's neck, giving the handler control and preventing the dog from slipping out of the collar.

However, training collars are among the most incorrectly use tools ever invented. So it's worth taking obedience classes to learn how to use them correctly. 

Hint: if your dog continually pulls when you're walking her with a training collar, you're not using it properly. Don't feel bad; you have plenty of company. Other signs of misuse: the dog is choking, gagging or wheezing during walks.

3. Snap-on collars. These can be fine for gentler, less rambunctious dogs, but the closure can give way with stronger ones. As for stretch collars, we do not advise them for dogs, since a dog could back out of the collar.

4. Martingale collars. Also called greyhound collars, these nicely designed devices serve as a gentler, relatively comfortable but still effective alternative to chain, slip, choker and other training/walking collars. The Premier Collar, made by a company by the same name, is just one example of this buckle collar, which typically looks like two loops of material. The leash is attached to the extra, smaller loop. This self-adjusting collar tightens if the dog pulls or tries to slip his head out, evenly around the dog's neck without risk of choking the animal. Martingale-style collars provide control to the handler while preventing injury to the dog. It's a humane and effective choice for many dogs, and is bidirectional -- you can it use it without adjustment no matter which side of body you heel your dog.

5. Pinch or prong collar. This one has metal prongs on connected links of the collar. When you pull the leash, the prongs press into the dog's neck, in effect applying pressure to many points around the neck. The prongs should have vinyl coverings on the tips or the handler could injure the dog. Even with coated/covered prongs, many people misuse or overuse this restraint, reducing the potential effectiveness of the device and causing injury to the dog, immediately or over time. And as with training collars, when using pinch and prong collars, they should never be left on a dog.

Pet grooming- a way of bonding with the pet!

No matter what breed of dog you have - large or small - there is no doubt that they could greatly benefit from a really good grooming session once in a while. Grooming has become quite fashionable these days, but did you know this service is not just to make your pets look good, but it is also necessary to keep animals healthy too? Consider doggie brushes for example; it will keep your pet’s fur soft, shiny and tangle-free. Without any snags and tangles, your pet’s fur will not be a breeding ground for parasites and bacteria. Clippers, tooth brush and flea powders should also be included in your must-buy list.

Not only does grooming offer the chance for you to keep tabs on the health of your dog, it is also a process that can bring you closer together. As such, it's important that they get used to the process as puppies. The younger they are when they're groomed for the first time, the more chance you've got of them staying still for grooming as they grow! The motion of grooming can be a very soothing action for a dog if they trust the person doing it, and it'll keep them stay looking good, feeling happy, and most importantly, keeping healthy.

From nail clipping to fur brushing, with a good, soapy hose-down in the bath for good measure, grooming time with your dog allows you the chance to look out for any abnormalities that may be present, such as fleas or ticks, ringworm or any lumps. Remember that if you do notice anything, it's important that you take your pup to the vet to get it looked over.

Ultimately, grooming is one of the best ways for you to bond with your pup, and if it helps keep them healthy too? Brilliant! Read on for more information on key grooming actions like nail clipping, brushing and bathing, and don't forget, if you think it might just be easier to have an expert thoroughly pamper your pooch, or just fancy getting some advice, pop into your local Groom Room where a member of our expert team will be happy to help!

Choosing a comfortable shelter for your pets!

Dogs should be fed raw meat or packed food?

This is a fundamental concern of every dog owner. One of the biggest challenges in deciding whether to feed a raw diet is the overwhelming amount of conflicting information, and the fact that much of this information is anecdotal in nature. There are numerous websites and message boards extolling the virtues of a raw diet and there are others condemning raw diets as unsafe and unhealthy. When choosing how and what to feed your dog, you need balanced information—information that outlines both the good and bad so that an educated choice can be made.

A good diet can contribute to a long and healthy life and even psychological well-being for our pets. The question is, what is the best food to feed domesticated dogs? While the majority of people feed a commercial kibble or canned food, many owners today are looking for other options.

A raw food-based diet is one approach that has grown in popularity over  the last decade, but  along with this growing popularity has come growing controversy regarding the benefits of feeding a raw diet.

Why raw diet?

1.       One of the reasons people cite for feeding a raw diet is that it is a more “natural” diet for dogs.

2.       The theory is that wild canids would eat a diet mainly consisting of raw meat and bones, so people should try and mimic this diet when feeding their pets.

The Benefits of a Raw Diet: Feeding a raw dog food diet has many notable benefits…

1.       Firmer stools

2.       Improved digestion

3.       Healthier skin and coat

4.       Reduced allergy symptoms

5.       Better weight management

6.       There have been many reports of improved health when chronically ill pets were switched from a commercial product to a raw dog food.

The Downside of a Raw Dog Food Diet

Why packed food?

1.       The pet dogs that live in our homes do not resemble their wild cousins.

2.       We have bred dogs to have a range in size from the small Pamelion to the massive Neapolitan Mastiff, and a variety of builds from the light-framed Whippet to the bulky Bulldog.

3.       In addition, there are breeds like the Bedlington Terrier that are prone to specific nutrient deficiencies. With all of these physiological differences between our pets and wild canids, can we be certain that what a wild canid eats is indeed an ideal diet for Rover?

4.       A raw dog food diet can’t touch the convenience of a packed food. Just measure and pour. It just doesn’t get any easier.

5.       Yet besides the lack of convenience, there’s another critical issue. Bacterial contamination. Salmonella and E. coli germs can always be a potential problem with raw meats. Yet the risk of food-borne disease is actually quite low.

6.       That is, low risk for dogs. But not for humans. That’s because a dog’s digestive system is shorter and more acidic. Which makes canine infections like these fairly rare. The real risk of food-borne disease is actually greater for a dog’s human caretakers — not the dog. Yet with proper care and handling, this risk can be dramatically reduced.

Please feel free to share your recommendations @rohitsingh.vet@gmail.com

Nutritional diseases caused in Layer Hen

"Laying hen" is a common term for a female, grown chicken that is kept primarily for laying eggs. Some chickens are raised for meat, while others are primarily for eggs, and some are dual-purpose - people may use older laying hens for food, or raise roosters alongside hens but dispatch the roosters as young, plump birds for the table. Raising laying hens is a different process than raising chickens for meat. Most laying hens will live five to seven years, laying eggs nearly daily for about three of those years.

Nutritional diseases caused in Layer Hen are:

1.      

      Rickets: It is caused by a deficiency or imbalance of circulating calcium, vitamin D3 or phosphorous. The disease occurs when there is an imbalance of these nutrients or if the diet is deficient in any of them. Some medications and mold toxins may also cause rickets. The condition results in soft bones, where they will often become bowed thereby restricting the birds’ ability to stand and walk.

Prevention:  Rickets can be prevented or treated if the condition is caught early. In order for normal bone calcification to occur, calcium and phosphorous must be supplied in adequate amounts and they also need to be supplied in the correct ratio to each other (2:1). Too much or too little of these minerals can result in rickets.

Vitamin D3 is important because it regulates the absorption of calcium. Mycotoxins are the toxins produced by molds or fungus and can have detrimental effects on poultry including interfering with the absorption of nutrients. Mycotoxin induced rickets can be treated by replacing toxin-contaminated feed and supplementing vitamin D3 to three or fourfold the usual levels.

2.      

      Caged layer fatigue (CLF) was first observed in the mid-20th century shortly after layer producers began to house laying hens in cages. Although diets for laying hens are specifically formulated to be nutritionally complete, CLF is described as a nutritional disease and is a major cause of death in laying hens housed in cages.

This condition usually occurs in birds around peak egg production and may also be associated with osteoporosis, a condition that causes brittle bones. The primary cause of CLF is thought to be the depletion of the body stores of calcium usually a result of a delay in feeding with high calcium feeds during high production.

The condition can also occur from a metabolic malfunction that impairs calcium absorption or bone calcification during the production stage. Birds suffering from CLF will lose control of their legs and lie on their side. Usually there is no loss in egg production nor is shell quality or interior egg quality reduced. Some bones may be fractured and some will break when the birds are handled.

Because the condition is more prevalent in caged layers rather than floor pen birds, exercise can play a role in preventing or treating the condition. Hens will recover when they are removed from the cages and allowed to walk normally on the floors. It has been observed that CLF is more prevalent in single-hen-cages rather than multiple-hens cages because multiple birds in a cage will get more exercise when competing for feed and water. Feeding the hens a diet with the right proportions of calcium in a timely manner will prevent the depletion of calcium from the medullary bones.

3.      

      Fatty liver syndrome (FLS) is one of the most important metabolic disorders observed during high production periods in laying hens. It was first described in the 1950’s as excessive fat in the liver associated with varying degrees of hemorrhage. The actual cause of the disease is still unclear and the first sign is often an increase in mortality in the flock. Several factors can cause increased deposition of fat in the cells of the liver including; high egg production, toxins, nutritional imbalances, excessive consumption of high energy diets, deficiency of nutrients that mobilize fat from the liver (lipotropic agents), endocrine imbalances and genetic components. FLS in chickens is a result of excessive accumulation of fats when lipoprotein transport is disrupted. The liver is the main site of lipid synthesis in the avian species which is very active in adult females which are producing eggs.

Necropsy of dead hens with FLS will reveal that the birds have enlarged and pale livers (the pale yellow color of the liver can also be a result of dietary xanthophylls); affected birds also have pale combs. The liver cells are distended with fat vacuoles and different size hemorrhages. The abdominal cavity of the birds contains large amounts of fats. Fatty liver syndrome without excessive fat is associated with mycotoxins in feeds. A FLS liver will contain about 55 percent fat as opposed to a normal liver with 36 percent fat. Death usually occurs from the rupture of the liver along with gross hemorrhaging.

Fatty Liver Syndrome occurs when birds are in a positive energy balance (an oversupply of energy); therefore monitoring the body weight can be used to diagnose the condition. Dietary modification can be used to prevent or treat FLS. Substituting carbohydrate with supplemental fat will not increase the energy content of the diet and can be beneficial. Replacing corn with other cereals such as wheat and barley is often beneficial. The use of by-product feeds such as dried distiller’s grains and solubles, fish meal, oat hulls and alfalfa meal can reduce FLS. The best way to prevent FLS is to prevent excessive positive energy balance in older birds. Body weight can be monitored when potential problems are seen. When increased body weight is observed action should be taken to limit energy intake by feeding lower energy diets and or a change in feed management.

Choosing the right food for your first Pet

Pets bring joy to the lives of their owners, and it is the owner’s responsibility to make sure pets enjoy healthy, happy lives. Whether one’s pet is a dog, cat, fish, bird, lovable rodent, or even a reptile, it is necessary to find the pet supplies these special friends need.

For some individuals, pets are not just animal companions but they are members of the family as well. If you feel the same bond with your pooches and felines as with your children or siblings, of course you will make sure they are always well-cared for. Just like humans, they need adequate food, shelter, health, security and exercise. For this very reason, you need to know how to choose the perfect accessories for your beloved pets.

If you are going to pick up your first pet soon, you should know first that you can’t just use any feeding or watering bowl. First-time pet owners often take these two accessories for granted, but if you are not going to buy the right one, be prepared to deal with a lot of mess after feeding time.

Adverse food reactions in cats and dogs are mainly expressed by pruritus and gastrointestinal signs. Acute anaphylactic reactions such as those seen in a minority of people who are allergic to nuts and some other foods have not been reported in relation to pet food.

Basically, you have to base your decision on the size of your animal friends. Bigger pets need to have larger bowls that are a bit heavier on the base. This will stabilize the container so it won’t topple over if your pet gets a little too energetic during feeding time. On the other hand, smaller animals should have shallower basins so they won’t have to push their whole heads in to get the food and water inside.

If a manufacturer labels a product as a complete pet food without specification of a determined

life stage, it is assumed to be complete for all life stages, and should be formulated according

to the levels recommended for early growth and reproduction. If the product is designed for a

specific life stage, then the label must clearly state this.

Today, there are feeders that can automatically disperse food and water during a certain pre-set periods even if you are not home. These are priced steeply, but if you are constantly away, they can be useful in making sure that Tomy and Kitty have access to fresh water and food.

Complete pet food means pet food which, by reason of its composition, is sufficient for a daily

ration. When a complete pet food is fed for an extended period (i.e. covering the whole period of the life stage) as the only source of nutrients, it will provide all the nutritional needs of the particular animals of the given species and physiological state for which it is intended.

Why do cat cry?

Why do cats meow? The reasons change as they grow from kittens into cats. Kittens meow to their mothers when they’re hungry, cold, or scared. But once cats get older, they use other vocalizations -- such as yowling, hissing, and growling -- to communicate with each other. Meowing is reserved for their communications with people.

Of course, the amount of meowing varies by breed and even cat. Oriental breeds, especially Siamese cats, are known as great “talkers,” so anyone who doesn’t like meowing probably should steer clear of these breeds. 

People talk to communicate and cats do, too. Your cat cries because:

•    Your cat is hungry

•    Your cat wants some type of attention

•    Your cat is annoyed at you

•    Your cat is frightened

•    Your cat doesn’t feel well

•    Your cat is simply chatty (Some breeds – Siamese, Bengal, Tonkinese and Sphynx – are particularly known for this trait.)

Unfortunately for us, humans are notoriously bad at interpreting cat messages from the sound alone. To understand what your cat is trying to say when she’s meowing, pay extra attention to what she’s doing when she talks during the daytime. Listen to what your cat says to you when:

•    You make your cat’s food and briefly withhold it

•    Your cat gets tired of being petted

•    Your cat wants access to a blocked-off room

•    Your cat rubs against your leg and wants some attention or playtime

•    Your cat is traveling in the car

•    Your cat is in the vet’s waiting room

Meowing for a late-night snack or a wee-hours play session can be discouraged by giving your cat a before-bed snack (if her diet allows it) and then by ignoring her. Talking back to her or giving in to her demands will just encourage her. Expect things to get worse before they get better.

Notes: In general, meows tend to be louder and more rapid when a cat is stressed. Also, cats tend to get more vocal as they age and their cognitive functions start to decline. If your usually quiet cat turns into a chatty tabby as she reaches seniorhood (or at any age, really), a visit to the vet is warranted to rule out a physical cause.

The top 11 veterinary schools in America

1. University of California, Davis

Rising from the number-two spot in the last rankings published in 2011, the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of California, Davis, claimed number one this year.

The school has more than 500 students and residents, according to a university release. UC Davis cares for more than 48,000 animals per year at a teaching hospital in Davis and satellite clinics in Tulare and San Diego.

2. Cornell University

Falling from its number-one ranking in 2011 to second this year, the College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University (CVM) has 382 DVM students and 129 graduate students.

The program features the Cornell University Hospital for Animals, Cornell University Veterinary Specialists in Stamford, Cornell Ruffian Equine Specialists in Elmont and the Animal Health Diagnostic Center in Ithaca to serve animals and owners. The school awarded the first DVM degree in the U.S. in 1876, university representatives say.

3. Colorado State University

Receiving approximately 1,500 applications every year, Colorado State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences (CVMBS) accepts approximately 130 students in each class. Students can combine their studies in a doctorate, a master’s degree in business administration and a master’s degree in public health. The program has an equine orthopedic research center, one of the world’s largest animal cancer centers and a diagnostic medicine program that is a member of a nationwide system that monitors for emerging infectious diseases. Its Veterinary Teaching Hospital cares for thousands of small animals every year. CVMBS also has research programs in infectious diseases, cancer, neuroscience, occupational health, environmental toxicology and animal reproduction.

4. North Carolina State University

The North Carolina State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine (CVM) has 358 DVM students, 65 graduate students and 76 interns and residents.

The 180-acre campus includes 20 buildings and has a working farm that serves as a teaching animal unit. The NC State Veterinary Hospital and the 110,000-square-foot Randall B. Terry Jr. Companion Animal Veterinary Medical Center care for 28,000 animals every year. Its House Officer Program offers one- to three-year internships in more than 20 clinical specialties, and aspiring veterinary researchers can participate in the Clinician Scientist Training Program.

5. Ohio State University

The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine admits up to 162 students in each class. The program’s Veterinary Medical Center—one of the world’s largest specialty referral and emergency centers, representatives say—receives 35,000 visits every year. The center is made up of four facilities: The Hospital for Companion Animals, the Hospital for Farm Animals, Galbreath Equine Center and a satellite emergency and specialty practice for companion animals in Dublin, Ohio.

The program also features one of the largest clinical trial offices in the nation, a farm animal and ambulatory teaching unit in Marysville, the Food Animal Health Research Program in Wooster for detecting, controlling and preventing disease, and a partnership with the Capital Area Humane Society (CAHS) for experience in shelter medicine.

6. University of Wisconsin–Madison

The University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine (SVM) accepts approximately 90 students every year. The SVM features the UW Veterinary Care teaching hospital and offers a wide variety of experiences in food animal medicine, shelter medicine, zoological medicine and other specialties.

7. Texas A&M University

The Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences (CVM) consists of approximately 530 DVM students. It offers doctorate degrees in biomedical sciences and veterinary pathobiology and a master’s degree in biomedical sciences. The school belongs to the One Health initiative and features the Michael E. DeBakey Institute for Comparative Cardiovascular Science and Biomedical Devices and the Schubot Exotic Bird Health Center.

More than 3,000 veterinarians across the country have referred patients to the school’s Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital, and the facility receives 24,000 visits every year. The school also has hospitals for large and small animals. The program started work on a $120 million veterinary building project in 2014.

8. University of Pennsylvania

The University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine accepts 125 students per class to study at two campuses featuring diagnostic and research laboratories. The New Bolton Center—a 700-acre large-animal hospital in Kennett Square—cares for 4,000 horses and farm animals each year, and its field service visits almost 36,000 patients. The facility also includes swine, dairy and poultry medicine. Penn Vet’s Ryan Hospital in Philadelphia cares for more than 31,000 companion animal patients every year. The program participates in the One Health initiative.

9. University of Minnesota

The University of Minnesota College of Veterinary Medicine admits 102 veterinary students per year and offers a dual-degree program in veterinary medicine and public health. The program’s Veterinary Medical Center teaching hospital treats more than 35,000 cases every year.

The school’s facilities include a diagnostic laboratory as well as equine and raptor centers. The program also features the Center for Animal Health and Food Safety, National Center for Food Protection and Defense, and the Global Initiative for Food Systems Leadership.

10. Tufts University

The Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts features three teaching hospitals that treat 28,000 patients per year, according to its website. Students gain experience at these seven sites:

1. Foster Hospital for Small Animals

2. Lerner Spay and Neuter Clinic

3. Wildlife Clinic

4. Hospital for Large Animals

5. Tufts at Tech Community Veterinary Clinic (for low-income clients)

6. Tufts Ambulatory Service (serving food animal, small ruminant and equine clients).

7. Tufts Veterinary Emergency Treatment and Specialties

11. University of Georgia

 The University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine (UGA) has 426 DVM students, 67 PhD candidates and 34 residents, according to its website. The school’s post-graduate offerings for DVMs include avian medicine (MAM and MAHM) and food animal medicine (MFAM). The program also has the Poultry Diagnostic and Research Center and the Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS). UGA is the only public university that offers an international veterinary medicine certification program. It also offers practicing veterinarians continuing education courses.

In real sense, what is Grain Free Pet Food?

Grain free pet foods are very popular currently. Feeding your dog a high-quality well-balanced food is one of the best things that you, as a pet owner, can do to keep your dog healthy. A good food will keep your dog’s hair coat shiny and sleek. It will strengthen his immune system. It will keep his digestive system in good health. But when it comes to choosing a dog food, the options seem almost endless.

Nutritionally, the most important aspect of a pet food is whether the food provides complete and balanced nutrition. If the food contains excesses or deficiencies of specific nutrients, the pet will suffer as a result. This concept is true regardless of whether the food contains grains or not.

Each ingredient in the diet provides a unique set of nutrients to the overall makeup of the food. Together, the ingredients need to combine to provide a complete nutrient profile for your pet, without any excesses or deficiencies that can cause illness for your pet. It is certainly possible for grain free diets to provide this type of complete nutrition for your pet. However, these diets are not the only option, or even necessarily the best option, for each individual pet. There is no one diet or type of diet that is perfect for all pets. In other words, no pet food is a one-size-fits-all nutritional solution.

Grain Free does not mean Carb Free!

Another popular feeding concept that often seems to go hand in hand with feeding grain free pet food is the feeding of a high protein, low carbohydrate diet. High protein, low carbohydrate diets do have their place, particularly in the feeding of diabetic cats. However, it is important not to assume that a grain free diet is a low carbohydrate diet. In fact, some grain free pet foods contain carbohydrate levels similar to or even higher than diets containing grains. In many grain free diets, ingredients such as potatoes replace the grains in the food and often these ingredients have more carbohydrates than the common grains used in pet food. As a result, grain free and low carbohydrate pet foods are not always synonymous with one another.

Is Grain Free Pet Food More 'Natural'?

Proponents of grain free diets sometimes claim that grains are an unnatural source of nutrition for our pets. They argue that ancestors of our current-day dogs and cats did not eat grains. However, it could be argued that potatoes and other forms of carbohydrates are no more “natural” for our pets than are grains. Fortunately, our pets (dogs and cats alike) have evolved to be able to digest grains as well as many other sources of carbohydrates (including potatoes).

Impact on Cat and Dog Food Allergies

Another popular misconception that many pet owners fall victim to is the assumption that grain free diets are the best diets for pets with food allergies. While food allergies do occur in pets, corn and other grains are not among the most common allergens found in foods. In fact, according to some of the available research, corn is actually one of the least likely sources of food allergy.

Conclusion

 Feeding a grain free diet is a legitimate option for your pet. However, feeding a grain free diet still requires choosing a diet that includes complete and balanced nutrition for your pet. Choose ingredients with which you, as a pet owner, are comfortable. But remember that in the long run, it is the nutrient profile that is important, not the individual ingredients in the pet food.

As with all things related to your pet’s health, your veterinarian is your best source of information regarding pet foods. Your veterinarian is knowledgeable about all types of pet food and can help you determine the type of diet that is best for your pet.